A Guide to Basic Flower Care 101

Selecting Flowers for Your Garden

When planning your home or office flower garden, the most important first steps is carefully choosing flowers that will thrive in your local growing conditions, whether you are in Brisbane or Hobart, this makes a huge difference in what to choose. 

There are number of key factors to consider when deciding which varieties of flowers are right for your garden. First and foremost, review your region's hardiness zone rating and compare it to the zone ratings of flowers you have in mind. Selecting cold-hardy flowers suited to your area's winter temperatures ensures the plants will survive and re-bloom every year. Additionally, determine the number of hours of direct sunlight and shade your outdoor garden space receives daily or placements for indoor potted flowers. Then pick sun-loving flowers versus shade-tolerant varieties accordingly. There are many Apps and tools you can use for this, as opposed to standing all day in your yard, here is one.

Do you want an orderly English garden filled with roses and tulips? A colourful, eclectic mix of sunflowers, zinnias, and pansies? Or a peaceful oasis with ornamental grasses, Japanese maples and hydrangeas? 

Preparing Flower Bed Soil

Proper soil preparation is a crucial yet often overlooked first step when establishing new flower beds or revitalizing existing beds for optimal growth and blooms. 

When planning a new flower bed, first remove any existing weeds, debris or unhealthy plants. Then till or loosen the top 12-18 inches of native soil before incorporating 2-4 inches of organic compost and mixes like Lily's potting soil customized for flowering plants. The ideal flower bed soil should retain moisture but still drain freely while providing essential nutrients through slow-release, organically derived compounds.

If drainage is an issue with dense, heavy clay soil, add pearlite or sharp sand to improve permeability so flower roots don't get waterlogged. For very sandy, quick-draining flower beds, enhancing the soil's water retention and fertility by mixing in moisture-retentive compost is key.

Testing soil pH yearly and correcting excessive acidity or alkalinity also keeps flowers thriving. An ideal pH range for most flowers is slightly acidic, between 6.0 - 7.0. Applying pH balancing soil amendments like lime, sulphur, peat moss etc. modifies trouble spots. This is a pretty high-level approach but worth the stretch if you have the time.

Planting Flowers in Beds and Containers

Once you've prepped your flower beds or containers and selected suitable varieties, it's time for planting your beautiful blossoms. 

When planting flowers outdoors, refer to the seed packet or plant tag to determine ideal planting times based on your hardiness zone. Spring planting after the region's last average frost date (if you have one, mostly in Southern Australia) is best for most annual flowers and summer bulbs. Perennials are often well-suited to autumn planting allowing good root establishment before winter dormancy. Garden centre team members can also provide localized tips on timing.

Carefully remove potted flowers or flower seedlings from their original containers before moving them into either prepared garden beds or new flower pots. Gently loosen any circling roots and ensure the crown is level with its new soil surface. Plant spacing varies, but allow enough room for air circulation and growth. Place seed packets nearby for reference on mature plant width.

Be sure to water flowers thoroughly at planting time and continue supplemental watering manually or via irrigation until roots fully develop. New transplants especially rely on ample moisture to mitigate transplant shock. Applying organic mulch also aids water retention while suppressing competition from weeds.

Proper Watering Methods for Flowers

Consistent, effective watering is vital for ensuring flowers remain vigorously healthy and bursting with colourful blooms all season. Flowers primarily source moisture from the soil through their root systems, so it’s important to focus watering efforts at soil level rather than misting foliage.

While specific watering requirements vary among flower species, most established plants need approximately 2-5 centimetres of water per week from either rainfall or manual irrigation techniques. Potted plants and new transplants may need more frequent watering to maintain evenly moist (but not muddy) soil. The ideal time for watering flowers is early morning, which gives foliage time to dry out in daylight.

When the time comes to water flowers, use a gentle spray attachment for the hose rather than an intense stream that damages delicate petals and stems. Or rely on targeted irrigation methods like drip lines or soaker hoses that slowly release water.

It’s also important to recognise visible signs of underwatering, which may include foliage wilting, dull colour and stunted buds. Meanwhile excess watering makes itself known through yellowing leaves, mouldy soil or flowering decline. Adjusting watering frequency alleviates these issues.

Fertilising Flowers for Optimal Blooms

While proper sunlight, soil, moisture and care promote flower growth, providing essential nutrients through fertilizers takes their productivity, colours and bloom size to the next level. Flowers mainly require the macronutrients nitrogen (N) for green foliage, phosphorus (P) for root and flower development, and potassium (K) for overall health and disease resistance.

When choosing fertilisers, look for a balanced formula containing equal parts N-P-K, such as 10-10-10 or 5-5-5. Slow release or liquid organic fertilizers like Lily's Flower Power also deliver steady nutrition without as much burn risk compared to synthetic varieties.

Follow package instructions for correct fertilizer dilution and application methods. Granular or spike options work well for outdoor beds, while liquid formulas can be mixed into watering cans for potted flowers. Only apply at full strength around established plants, using half-strength solutions for younger or distressed flowers.

While the adage “if a little is good, more is better” may seem logical, over-fertilizing flowers can seriously harm or kill them. An excess of nutrients leads to foliar damage, stunted buds, poor flowering and susceptibility to diseases. Observation of visual nutrient deficiency symptoms like yellowed leaves guides ideal supplemental correction.

Applying Mulch for Flower Beds

An often overlooked yet highly beneficial practice for newly planted or established flower beds is applying 5-10 centimetres of organic mulch, such as bark chips, shredded bark, or compost. 

Lay mulch down around flower beds at the start of the growing season once soil has warmed sufficiently. Rake away any weeds or debris before blanketing the bare soil surrounding plants. Leave a small gap around the base of each flowering plant to prevent fungal issues from excess contact moisture. Then replenish the mulch layer as needed through the season.

The right organic mulch for flower gardens varies by climate, soil needs and aesthetic preferences. Bark chips offer an attractive, neutral backdrop that contrasts well against vibrant blooms. Compost mulches also amend soil fertility but have a more varied, natural appearance. Cedar and cypress mulches deter certain insect pests but can be more expensive.

Inorganic mulches like pebbles or gravel provide unique visual interest and weed suppression if an orderly look is desired. But these do not improve soil structure over time like organic mulches that break down and release nutrients.

Controlling Pests and Weeds Among Flowers

Left uncontrolled, damaging garden pests and fast-spreading intrusive weeds quickly sabotage tender flower plants in beds and containers outside. But through vigilant monitoring and timely intervention using both mechanical removal and natural treatments like organic insecticidal soaps, your prized flowers can flourish pest-free.

Preventative actions like applying dense organic mulch around flower beds, improving light or airflow where fungi spread, and regularly inspecting for early signs of problems are key. Common flower garden pests include aphids, spider mites, thrips, Japanese beetles and snails/slugs. Non-flowering weeds compete aggressively for soil moisture and nutrients.

Catch infestations early by routinely surveying flowers for indicators like chewed foliage and buds, spots/holes in leaves, black mould, unusual growths or webs/egg clusters on stems. Also check under leaves for insects and pluck large intrusive weeds after rain when soil loosens.

Use low impact mechanical removal methods like jet sprays, sticky barriers, traps and hand picking for small pest or weed problems before considering natural pesticides. Horticultural insecticidal soaps, neem oil, diatomaceous earth or Bt-kurstaki control most biting and sucking insects, while protecting bees and letting useful predators thrive.

Promoting Ongoing Flowers Through Pruning

Aside from providing flowers sufficient sunlight, space, irrigation, nutrition and pest protections, gardeners can spur floral longevity through timely practices that guide energy towards continual bud production. Specifically by regularly deadheading spent blooms, cutting back or pinching stems at key times, and dividing overgrown perennial root systems, blossoming cycles renew rather than halt.

Deadheading simply involves removing wilted flowers just above the nearest set of full, healthy leaves using clean shears or scissors once petals fade. This halts seed head formation that zaps energy, signalling the plant to redirect it towards forming fresh, new flower buds further down each stem or branch.

Strategically pruning overgrown stems by a third maintains more compact, manageable flowering plant size for better air movement and light penetration. Alternatively, thin each stem down to 3-5 productive buds. Pinching off the central new shoot makes plants bush out instead of stretching up during summer.

Every few years, dig up overgrown perennial plants, break the root ball into smaller sections with shoots attached, then replant divisions for rejuvenated, less cramped plants. Annually cutting back unsightly growth in late fall or winter also maintain cleaner appearance.

Protecting Flowers Through Frigid Winters

While summer gardens burst with vibrant blossoms, the inevitable winter chill ahead threatens vulnerable flowers unprotected from freezing temperatures and desiccating winds. Advance action to either transplant non-hardy potted varieties indoors or insulate hardy grounded types preserves your floral investment.

For container-grown plants like citrus trees or orchids requiring continual warmth, relocate them into a bright, sheltered greenhouse or interior space before your region’s first fall frost. Prune away dead leaves or stems, check for pest infestations, then situate in a sunny area around 60°F after allowing gradual indoor acclimation.

Meanwhile, established cold-tolerant perennials, shrubs and some annuals dug up elsewhere often thrive replanted in protected garden microclimates next to structures. Ensure sharp drainage to prevent freeze/thaw root damage and apply winterizing organic compost for insulation.

For favoured rooted garden perennials like peonies, hardy mums and ornamental grasses preferring winter dormancy yet vulnerable to extreme cold, fashion protective layers shielding crown buds near soil level. Mound shredded leaves, pine needles or straw 5-6 inches deep once foliage completely dies back.

Identifying and Correcting Flower Problems

Despite attentive watering, fertilizing, pest protections and care, flower gardens sometimes suffer setbacks including discoloured yellowing leaves, wilting, sudden leaf drops or failure to bloom. Pinpointing and quickly correcting the underlying causes restores floral beauty.

If previously thriving flowers display limp, spotted or curled foliage, evaluate recent irrigation habits first. Both too little moisture stunting roots and overly saturated soil encouraging diseases manifest similar symptoms. Check drainage and amend watering frequency accordingly by increasing for drought or allowing soil to further dry if oversaturated.

Yellowing leaves with prominent veins indicate likely nutritional deficiencies interfering with nutrient flows or chlorophyll production. Lower leaves yellow first when nitrogen lacking for foliage development, while pale new growth and leaf loss reflect inadequate soil potassium. Choose organic acidic fertilizers with more N or K to restore nutrient balance.

If poor flowering persists despite ideal growing conditions and plant age, accumulated soil salts may be concentrating without sufficient leaching rainfall. Top dress containers with fresh potting mix or work gypsum pellets into in-ground flower beds to grab excess salts for flushing.

Complementary Flower Companion Planting

Strategically interplanting flowering plants alongside certain vegetables, herbs and other blooms for mutual benefits is called companion gardening. With thoughtful compatible flower pairings, gardeners enhance positive interactions above and below soil - boosting growth, deterring pests, maximizing space and pollination.

For example, pairing low growing nitrogen-fixing white clover as a living ground cover beneath upright corn stalks or sunflowers enriches surrounding soil. Nearby bee-attracting flowers like cosmos, asters and black-eyed Susans also increase essential pollinator visits to crops for improved fruit and vegetable yields.

Meanwhile, planting concentrated-odour flowers like marigolds, chives, mint or nasturtiums as barriers along edges of vegetable plots helps repel hungry wildlife. And trap crops like yellow mustard lure destructive pests like flea beetles and cabbage worms away from delicate flowers.

Aim for 20-30% flowering plants interspersed among vegetables for balanced diversity. Copy nature’s ecosystems where plants thrive together in beneficial layers rather than segregated groupings. Reap nature’s elegant symbioses through purposeful multi-functional companion planting!

Article first published on 22.2.24, then updated on 11.5.24.